Οι Άνεμοι

The hot, thick, stagnant air hung all around us. Even for summer, a heat too intense, too intrusive – warm, sticky fingers in your hair, down your shirt, under your dress. Oh Zeus, if ever in word or deed I did please you, let us breathe again, cooler air, more temperate, pleasant – warm, but not oppressive.

As night fell, the winds came. Aeolos bent his head along the shore and blew fiercely, the frothy white tufts in the sea began to surge, slowly at first, then with great force, tumbling over into the city. As the wind grew stronger, it began to meander through the city streets, turning corners, climbing buildings, until the city was filled with the new, bless-ed air. It became as though a tempest without the rain, a gale as strong as Herakles, and with each gust came a blanket of soothing, crisp air – a promise of the Autumn to come. But not yet. Not yet. Only brief respite from the heat. A prayer heard, and answered.

Where to eat in the Thessaloniki City Center

I've been in Thessaloniki just over a year now, so we've pretty much found our favorite places to eat here in the center where we live. I figured I'd be kind enough to share it with the world, so if someone googles "where to eat in Thessaloniki" they might get lucky.

Favorite tavernas:
Οπτά Πυρί (Opta Pyri), beside the fountain in the square behind the OTE building. This place has great food of all kinds, but I especially like the κολοκυθοκεφτέδες (mashed fried zucchini in a patty). Reasonably priced.
Ούζου Μέλαθρον (Ouzoo Melathron), right off of Venizelou near Tsimiski. This place has a kitcshy, fun feel to it, although the menu might be a bit daunting for folks unfamiliar with Greek fare. Also, the names of some of the dishes might be considered offensive by some prudish, George Bush type people. Also reasonably priced, maybe a bit more expensive than your average taverna.

Favorite upscale non-traditional, German-Greek food:
Extrablatt, on Alex. Svolou. All types of sausages and meat dishes. A plethora of beer choices. Interesting artwork, nice atmosphere. A little pricier than most, expect to spend some money on your meal here, but it is well worth it.

Favorite gyros/souvlaki/"fast food":
The Best, Ag. Dimitriou 146, tel. 2310.200198 Their tzatziki is quite literally, the best.
15 Grill, tel. 2310.870093
Luigi, Strat. Kallari 1 & L. Nikis, tel. 2310.240096 This place has the best burgers in town, and an Arabic pita sandwich that is quite delicious.

Favorite "home" cooking:
ΜΕ ΝΟΥ, Egnatia 95, tel. 2310.287848 Moussaka, keftedes, pastitsio - all the good homemade foods.

Favorite pizza and pasta:
Preludio, Justinianus 24, tel. 2310.252046 Oh my god, their pizza is SO GOOD. Their crust, the sauce, everything. They must be a little bit Italian - or from New York. And at 5 to 7 euros a pizza (depending on size and toppings), you just can't beat the price.

Since we live in the center, we haven't had occasion to venture forth more in the city, but if new delicious places tempt our palates, I'll post more.

Καλή Όρεξη!

Bring it on!

Greece and the USA have moved on to the FIBA World Basketball Championship semi-finals, and they'll be playing each other at 10:30 Greek time on Friday. Should be a great game, after what I've seen of the Greek team (we all know the US team rocks). The winner of the Greece/USA match will face either Spain or Argentina in the finals on Sunday.

The US team dominates basketball, they can let someone else win for once.

Spit or swallow?

My husband cannot swallow pills. And by cannot, I mean I have to force open his mouth with those duck bill looking gynecological tools and shove the pills down his throat. Most of the time it doesn’t matter – any pill he takes either has a dissolvable form or is small enough that he can pretend he isn’t taking a pill at all. But we’ve started taking vitamins of late, and we all know they can’t seem to find a way to make vitamins human sized. I’m sure it is a big joke to the vitamin conglomerate to feed the public pills large enough for a horse – the gagged up pills alone are worth a fortune in replacements.

For weeks my husband had been struggling with taking the vitamins. It required complete silence – no one could move, breathe, or speak when he tried to swallow the vitamin, and even then, it was a crap shoot on whether or not he could get it down. One time I swear I saw our three cats huddled together in the next room taking bets on whether or not he would swallow the damn thing. Hell, I would have gotten in on that action.

After all this time, my frustration level finally peaked. I have better ways to spend a half hour than watching my husband gag and spit out a giant pill twenty times. So I shouted at him: “You’re a doctor, for christ’s sake! Just swallow the damn thing already!”

Needless to say (oh hell, I'm saying it anyway) he no longer has a problem taking the vitamins.

Probable cause

The neighbors above us seem to have problems deciding exactly where they want their furniture. Ever since the weekend, they've been moving what sounds like giant, colicky dragons with their nails scraping the floor and constant bursts of gas emitting from either end. This sound is particularly startling at 2am, when you awaken suddenly in your sleep and wonder why the circus is storing its animals above your head. While I understand proper furniture placement is crucial to good karma, it doesn't help much if it causes the people below you to have minor neurological damage that mimics Tourette's syndrome every time you see said neighbors in the hall.

Of course, I have to wonder what the neighbors below us think every time the cats run like recently emancipated banshees through the apartment. When I saw them downstairs yesterday, I'm pretty sure that word she said to me wasn't hello.

Greeks play good basketball

Who woulda thunk it? The Greek basketball team has made it to the FIBA World Championship Quarterfinals, after a smashing game against China today, with a final score of 95-64. Greece is among four teams that are undefeated in the championship, and they will face off with France on Wednesday. Providing that Greece wins against France and the U.S. win against Germany (well duh, like they won't), Greece will stand up to the Americans on Thursday.

If you want to know who I will root for in that event, my answer is when in Rome...

GO ELLADA!!!

Can we even the scales?

A new law punishing sexual harassment has entered the Greek penal code, apparently a first for Greece, so it seems this law was a long time coming. The penalties for a guilty verdict include prison time, fines, and suspension of business, and the burden of proof falls upon the accused.

My husband and mother-in-law were a bit shocked at that last fact. Certainly, it might be hard for someone to prove their innocence, although I’d think it is just as hard to prove you were harassed. I can see both sides of the argument for burden of proof – on one hand, with the reluctance of most women to come forward on sexual harassment charges, this certainly makes it easier on them. But on the other hand, it could lead to the conviction of innocent people.

In America, it seems that sexual harassment cases have more and more leaned in favor of plaintiffs over the past several years. An article by Wendy McElroy at ifeminists.com sums up the evolution of sexual harassment in America, and she suggests that “the issue has evolved dramatically in the last three decades and now seems to blatantly favor and perhaps encourage accusations.” In 1986, a precedent was set for “hostile environment” and, according McElroy’s article “increased an employer's liability and diminished a complainant's burden of proof.”

In 1998, two Supreme Court rulings made the resolution of sexual harassment cases even more difficult for employers. According to an article by Jim Collison, “any behavior of even a remotely sexual nature, which an employee finds threatening or offensive, or such behavior which is unwanted by the employee...can trigger a sexual harassment charge” and “under the court's new rulings, an employer can be liable even when the harassed employee fails to inform the employer of the objectionable behavior.”

It seems that Greece’s new law has adopted some of the extremist positions of American sexual harassment law, which, according to McElroy “offers lopsided power to those who even hint at an accusation.” While I am a staunch supporter of punishment for sexual harassment, I do fear that some women may either have axes to grind or even be a bit too naïve about things that might be sexual harassment. If something makes a woman uncomfortable, the perpetrator should be punished, right? I don’t really think so. When it comes down to women complaining because a man curses, talks about his “conquests” with other men at the office, has a sexually provocative picture in his locker – I don’t think these cases should qualify for sexual harassment. There is a difference between being victimized and adjusting to a work environment that has men in it. To me, the whole feminist ideology goes out the window when a woman can’t handle such things in the work environment.

There is a line that can be crossed, and has been crossed, and these people should be punished for it. But we have to develop a fairness when it comes to sexual harassment laws as well. While I want women who have been genuinely harassed to feel free to come forward, I don’t want innocent men (or women!) prosecuted. And I strongly feel that anyone who makes false claims for their own reasons (revenge, benefit, what have you) should face punitive charges as well, because their prevarication hurts real victims.

I suppose the real question is how can the law deal with this issue with proper sensitivity and fairness? I don’t know if I have the answer to that. I just hope Greek judges can adjudicate the proper line between fairness and ridiculousness.

Confirmation of my own idiocy

In the time that I have been struggling to learn Greek, my sister-in-law's English has greatly improved, she has learned German damn near fluently, and she is starting on learning Swedish with some fluency.

I must have been dropped on my head as a child.

Arrrrrrrrrrr, matey!

Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest is playing on 26 screens in and around Thessaloniki, 4 in the cinemaplex nearest us alone.

Now, I'm not knocking the movie, I haven't seen the first one yet, so I won't be seeing the second one. But seriously, y'all, there ARE other movies out right now, and I highly doubt the number of Thessalonians going to see the movie requires 26 theatres.

I'm still waiting for Clerks 2, although I have a sinking feeling it may get lost in the Greek market. It just seems that every movie I really want to see comes and goes within a couple of weeks. The last movie I saw in the theatre? Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. Everything else I've wanted to see has been gone by the time I get off my ass to go see it. I guess I gotta get out the first week if I really want to see a movie.

The fading of the light

As summertime oh so slowly ebbs away (the heat will not I fear, as always) our days of light grow ever shorter. It is almost dark by 20:30 now, and while I am a creature of the night who shuns the sun, I find these shortening days a bit sad, as if the early darkness steals our summer dreams.
Yet I too love the darkening days, the early twilight, the promise of a winter chill, of Christmas near, a midwinter's tale, the blessing of Hestia, the hearth of warmth and happiness. A chthonic goddess is still a goddess, after all.

I shall not rage against the dying of the light. I shall celebrate, instead, and look forward to another cycle of life.

Et tu, Pluto?

I'm really glad that leading astronomers sit around spending time debating things like whether or not Pluto gets to be a planet. I'm especially glad they have finally, by god, come up with a definition for what makes a planet because really, the world was at a loss without a definition.

Now that they have determined, officially, that Pluto is not a planet but a dwarf planet, I think we can all rest easier. I worry about little Pluto though. What if the other, real planets make fun of him now? What if Pluto plunges into such a deep depression that he leaps, unceremoniously, into a black hole? I suppose it could be worse. We might have lost Uranus.

Now can the leading astronomers now get down to important things like inhabiting the moon and warp drive capabilities? I mean sheesh, it is 2006 people! The best we can come up with is demoting Pluto?

Thank you for not snooping

Yesterday when I went down to the mailbox (we have mailboxes for each apartment, they are small and unlocked inside the front hall of our building) I saw a package jutting out of our box. It looked seriously maimed, as if a vicious attack dog had gotten hold of it and ripped it apart with the force of fangs and saliva. I knew my parents were sending me a couple of books, and I knew this had to be the package, and my first thought was "did Customs do this?"

I knew the answer was no, because usually Customs at least makes an attempt to reaffix the package in some manner. When I got to the package, only one book was inside (there should have been two). I panicked a bit, because the book I was missing was the one I really needed. I looked on the floor, no book. Finally, I found it on top of the mailboxes. Phew.

I figure one of two things happened - either a nosey neighbor (and boy, do we have a few of those!) decided to forsake all pretense of common human decency in the ongoing investigation of the business of their neighbors OR the postman, in great frustration at delivering us packages all the livelong day, ripped it in two so the damn thing would fit in our small box. I'm going with the latter, because surely if it had been an irresponsible neighbor, the second book, or rather the whole package, would have ended up on the floor, like scores of other mail they sort through and have no use for. Either way, it disturbs me a bit, because if there had been a letter or some other paper in the package it would have gotten ripped, not to mention, it was open for all the world to see.

Not that I have anything to hide, mind you, and if it pleases someone to find out that my parents sent me Shakespeare then by god, enjoy your jollies. But from here on out, leave my shit alone, unless you want me to stand in the downstairs hallway in front of the elevator shaft and listen to me recite from Henry V all day. Because I will do it, and the whole building will hear it, and by god, they will like it.

Appropriate Dinner Conversation

My favorite touristy taverna in Thessaloniki is Οπτά Πυρί near Aristotelous Square. Their food is good, they have nice live music, and the location is prime – surrounding a fountain square. Their only downside is once they’ve brought your food, you lose service forever unless you clap your hands together maniacally, quack like a duck, and do the chicken dance. It is painfully obvious that waitpersons in Greece don’t rely on tips for pay like their American counterparts, although we still tip them damn near the same. Hey, it is hard not to tip once you get used to it.

At dinner tonight I thought my husband and I were at a loss for words, until we started talking about a friend of ours who is taking Anatomy classes. Despite being a doctor, my husband would rather die than have any dealings with Anatomy classes, and I made the point that I couldn’t see myself working on a corpse – that all the various crap we dissected in high school was bad enough.

ME: Yea, I could barely stand dissecting frogs, and starfish, among other things.

HUBBY: Yea?

ME: Yea, you know, starfish are really friggin’ weird inside.

HUBBY: They are?

ME: Yea, it looks like peanut butter and shit.

HUBBY: Please! Not while we are having dinner!

ME: But you’re a doctor!

HUBBY: I’m not a starfish doctor!

Nope, my husband is definitely NOT a proctologist.

Requiem for a paradise

A fire began raging on the Halkidiki "finger" of Kassandra yesterday, burning out of control, destroying homes and wrecking vacation dreams for thousands of holidaymakers who find the tranquil, turquoise beaches a top holiday spot. A German tourist has died, apparently he drowned while trying to get away from the blaze on a boat. Sadly, he leaves a wife and child behind.

Today it is reported that the fire is under control, although one area has rekindled. The images of the fire have been a bit shocking, like the one above from ERT. Live pictures of the burning at night shocked me - it almost looked like lava burning all over the ground.

These aren't the only fires in Greece at the moment, unfortunately the Greek countryside seems to be rife with fire in the summertime, and sometimes the flames are sparked maliciously. Right now, I don't think there are any reports of what started the blaze on Halkidiki, I just hope it wasn't intentional.

My thoughts are with all those displaced by fire this summer, and those firefighters who are still working diligently to put out the flames. May Hephaistos guide them, and help them tame the blazes burning all around them.

A quote for all seasons

"For many among men are they who set high
the show of honor, yet break justice."

-Aeschylus, Oresteia - Agamemnon

Greek tragedy

The last couple of days have been a punishment borne down from Helios - the temperatures in some parts of Greece peaked at 45°C (113°F) degrees yesterday, and the day earned the honor of the hottest day of the year. Athens and other prefectures aided citizens by opening air conditioned centers for those that aren't so lucky to have artificial cool air pumping into their homes.

Unfortunately, an elderly couple faced the heat head on. The husband died, most likely due to heat stroke, and the wife is hospitalized. Ironically, the couple has air conditioning, and when asked why they weren't using it, the woman said they never turned it on for fear of freezing. I suppose overheating never occurred to them. Keeping it on a high temperature of around 30° could have been enough to save them without being too cold. Poor woman.

Luckily, the temperatures have taken a slight turn for the better (well, after the past couple of days 90° looks pretty damn good) and hopefully we are done with heat waves for the summer. As long as I didn't just jinx it.

Wherefore art thou Autumn?

I know it is August. I know it is still summer. But it is 100° (feels like 104°!) outside (that's 38°C feels like 40° to the European set). Even in Nashville - the heart of the deep, hot South - after mid-August you can expect some relief.

Edgar Cayce predicted the climate of Europe would change in the blink of an eye. I hope this ain't it.

Remind me of this when I am bitching about how cold it is in January.

To peacekeep, or not to peacekeep

Greece is now in the throes of contemplating the delicate task of sending peacekeeping forces into Lebanon to uphold what seems to be a rather weak ceasefire. Many E.U. countries have faltered in their offers to send troops right away, with Germany and the Netherlands choosing to stay out of Lebanon. France will only send 200 troops, asking for a clearer mandate. In light of the recent special ops mission by Israel against Hezbollah, I can't say I blame France for their hesitation. Sure, you need the peacekeeping forces in play to keep the peace, but can the peace be kept in such a volatile situation?

Greece has played a part in several peacekeeping missions in the past, and their contribution to aid in Lebanon over the past month has been laudable. However, I question the viability of sending Greek troops - or any peacekeepers - into the "peaceful" fray, as it almost seems the situation could be further compounded by the U.N. troops. Too many cooks can spoil the broth, and the broth is already a bit rancid. Can the ceasefire hold? Can the peacekeeping forces make it hold? Or will it erupt into further bloodshed?

Obviously, I have a bit more at stake when it comes to the Greeks. I have become rather protective of my new country and would prefer that its brave men and women not be sent into unresolvable and violent situations. But perhaps that is the true nature of the peacekeeper - to step in where there is no hope for resolution, and somehow make it right again.

Whatever could he be dreaming about?

Tonight I was in bed watching TV when a drop of water hit my arm. I shook my sleeping husband and asked if he was sweating profusely. He said, sleepily, "it wasn't me!", turned over, and then raised his head and said "unless the Germans did it", and went back to sleep again.

I suppose if I were travelling back to 1942 in my sleep I'd blame the Germans for everything too.

August 18th, 1920

Hail to the 19th Amendment of the United States Constitution, which was ratified on this day in 1920, giving women the right to vote. Ironically, Tennessee was the last state needed to ratify - and for once, Tennessee did right.

86 years ago, women fought and won the right to vote. But this war had been an arduous one for women. I am grateful for their hard work, and thankful to the men who found it in their hearts and minds to vote to ratify.

Women in Greece did not earn the right to vote until 1952.

If you want to watch an inspiring movie about the Women's Suffrage Movement in America try Iron Jawed Angels.